VACCINATIONS

Rabbits require vaccination against Myxomatosis and Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (VHD). Myomatosis is rife in wild rabbits locally and is commonly spread to pet rabbits by midges and biting flies, especially in the Autumn. VHD disease is less common, but kills pets rabbits very quickly. It can be introduced to pet rabbits by being brought into the house from outdoors on clothing and footwear.

Ist shot Myxomatosis - 6 weeks of age or later

2nd Shot f rom 10 weeks of age - Viral Haemorrhagic disease.

In older animals, it is recommended that the vaccines are given 2 weeks apart. The degree of immunity achieved against Myxomatosis is not good - 6 monthly vaccinations are required to give reasonable protection. The VHD vaccine lasts a year.

WORMING

Under normal conditions pet rabbits don't usually require worming.

FLEAS

Pet rabbits rarely  get  fleas  as  often as dogs and cats. However,  fleas may sometimes  be seen  in house  rabbits kept  permanently indoors.  A flea treatment is now licensed for rabbits. Advantage Spot On can now be used at monthly intervals as required in rabbits above 10 weeks of age.

Rearguard, another insecticidal spot on preparation, should be used during the summer months to prevent maggots infesting the skin around your rabbits bottom. This excellent product lasts for 8 weeks and should be used from spring thorough to autumn if your rabbit is prone to a dirty bottom.

OTHER SKIN PARASITES

Rabbits   not uncommonly get problems with fur  mites and mange -  these are easily treated   if hair loss  or  skin  scaling occurs.

Feeding the Pet Rabbit – Fibre Matters

Unlike dogs, cats and humans, rabbits have evolved to survive on a very coarse, high-fibre diet consisting mainly of grass. Rabbits ferment this fibrous material in their caecum (the hind gut) and it is passed very quickly through the gut. Three to eight hours after feeding they expel the material in the as soft, mucous-covered faecal pellets. These pellets are eaten directly from the anus as they are expelled (this is known as caecotrophy) . Caecotrophy allows a second digestion of the food and is very important for the absorption of many nutrients and vitamins.

RABBITS SHOULD EAT GRASS

Grass is high in fibre – particulary “long chop” fibres essential for normal caecal fermentation – and low in calories. Thus the rabbit is required to spend a considerable part of the day feeding. Grass is also very low in fat and high in calcium.

Normally, wild rabbits spend 4 to 6 hours a day feeding. Wild rabbits get few digestive problems and have very strong bones and teeth. Pet rabbits are often fed diets that are low in fibre and calcium and high in calories. Thus pet rabbits often have dental disease with related eye problems and poor bone quality resulting in bone fractures. Diets low in fibre are also associated with loose stools and blowfly strike, obesity, boredom and aggression.

DO

Feed a diet consisting mainly of bulky long chop fibres. The best diet for pet rabbits is grass and good quality hay. A small amount of a good quality commercial diet can be given. We recommend small quantities of Supa Rabbit Excel – a dessertspoon daily should be adequate for most rabbits.

Do allow pet rabbits access to a large outside run. This will allow them to graze naturally and also ensure adequate levels of Vitamin D as a result of exposure to sunlight.

Give treats in the form of carrots or small quantities of raw vegetables. These can be suspended from the roof of the run to provide a play item and increase the amount of time feeding.

Check your rabbit’s weight. You should always be able to feel the ribs of a rabbit in good condition.

DON’T

Feed “Meusli” type rations consisting of grains, pulses, grass pellets and biscuits. Rabbit will pick out their favourite items resulting in very unbalanced diet

Feed any sweet, sugar-rich foods such as biscuits, cake and choccy drops. Rabbits may love these items but they are exceedingly bad for the digestion.